20 - 24 April: At Sea, Western Pacific Odyssey. We departed Chuuk Island,
Micronesia late evening on 19 April. We would spend the next eight and half
days at sea! The original schedule called for us to land at the Bonin
Islands, Japan. However, the schedule has been modified (and two days
dropped off the voyage, making it a 31 day voyage and not a 33 day voyage).
We shall not make landfall until the morning of 28 April. The first two
days at sea, 20 + 21 April were definitely "dead zone" days. Precious few
seabirds were observed. We crossed the Mariana Trench, one of the deepest
places on the planet. Most folks on board were heavily involved in either
reading books, editing photographic images, making plans for birding in
Japan, or watching DVDs. I am reading, "The Bounty" by Caroline Alexander.
Several of us watched the Lyrid meteor shower, and a "tropical" party theme
was held in the bar. Until the late evening of 22 April, we were, again,
riding in the trough. The seas calmed that night. 23 April the first Bonin
Petrels were spotted in the early morning. And, today, 23 April, the first
Bannerman's Shearwaters were spotted, again in the very early morning. About
10 am, we crossed the Tropic of Cancer. Seas have smoothed out considerably.
It remains quite warm and tropical on deck, and quite a few Matsudaira's
Storm-Petrels are following in our wake.
Debi Shearwater, on the Western Pacific Odyssey
Friday, April 23, 2010
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
CHUUK ISLAND: MICRONESIA
18 - 19 April: CHUUK ISLAND, CAROLINE ISLANDS, MICRONESIA. The 2000 or so
atolls and islands of Micronesia are sprinkled liberally across the Pacific
in an area the size of the USA. There are many small, low, slender, sparsely
vegetated palm-fringed coral cays, which usually occur in circular or
horseshoe-shaped chains known as atolls, as well as some high, forested
volcanic islands. The 600 or so Caroline Islands span nearly 3000 km of the
Pacific and lie 1000 km south of Guam. The State of Chuuk, known as Truk
until 1990, consists of 11 high, mangrove-fringed volcanic islands within
the sapphire-blue lagoon. This lagoon, one of the largest barrier reefs in
the world, holds a captive fleet of half-submerged mountain peaks, as well
as over 70 brooding purple sunken hulks, remnants of WW II. On February 17,
1944, the USA unleashed Operation Hailstone, one of the most incisive aerial
attacks in history. For two days and a night, aircraft from the nine
carriers hammered the islands in 30 waves. Japan lost 250 planes, nearly 60
vessels, and thousands of men. The 180,000 tons of shipping sunk set a
two-day WW II record. Late on the evening of 18 April, we navigated the
entrance of Chuuk lagoon. Just prior to entering the lagoon, we spotted half
a dozen "Atoll" Shearwaters, adding another tubenose to our growing species
list. Plans were made for the next day. We divided ourselves into three
groups: those who wanted to snorkel and tour the town, those who wanted to
bird Weno and those who wanted to bird the island of Tol South. I choose the
second group. Seven of us headed to shore about 6:45 am, stopping to watch
the self-introduced Tree Sparrows on the dock. Our next stop was the Truuk
Stop Dive Shop. Here we enjoyed a cold drink, while watching Micronesian
Mysomelas feeding on flowers. We had already encountered several Caroline
Reed-Warblers which can be found in just about any habitat, including
feeding on lawns. Crimson-crowned Fruit-Doves were easily found in town. A
Common Sandpiper along with several Ruddy Turnstones were along the
shoreline. However, we were unable to find the Rufous Night Heron which was
seen from the ship's deck the previous evening. Each of us paid $5 to hitch
a ride in the dive shop's van to visit "Nefo Cave" on western Weno where
there is a tunnel and a big Japanese Gun. We were deposited at the road's
dead end. From here, we birded at our leisure. And, it was marvelous!
Between us, we were able to locate a number of our sought after species:
Caroline Islands White-eyes, including one carrying grubs to young in a
nest; Oceanic Flycatchers feeding dependent young; a male Caroline
Ground-Dove bringing nesting material to a female who was shaping the nest,
high in a large tree on the hillside; nesting Micronesian Starlings; and
half dozen Blue-faced Parrotfinches along the roadside. We took a short hike
up the hillside to see the gun and tunnel. On the other side of the tunnel,
we had a view below of an extensive wetland where a Pacific Duck was on a
nest. Suddenly, a torrential downpour blotted out our views and the sky
filled with swarming Caroline Island Swiftlets. We remained dry in our
sheltered cave. Finally, we walked to town, downhill, about 2 miles. We were
able to enjoy the people along the way, as well as continue birding. One
tree alone held over 40 Micronesian Myzomelas! A Pacific Golden Plover was
spotted on a lawn. Once in town, we made stops at the post office and
grocery stores for "goodies." That evening, we met up with our fellow
passengers. The snorkeling group had a good time, while the birding group to
Tol South had an extremely difficult climb up a sheer rock wall. They did
manage to see the very rare Faichuk White-eye. Some glimpsed the Truk
Monarch. Otherwise, they saw all of the same species we had seen, but with
more difficulty, than those of us at Weno observed. We pulled anchor, and
began our very long voyage to Yokohama, Japan.
Debi Shearwater, in the Caroline Islands
atolls and islands of Micronesia are sprinkled liberally across the Pacific
in an area the size of the USA. There are many small, low, slender, sparsely
vegetated palm-fringed coral cays, which usually occur in circular or
horseshoe-shaped chains known as atolls, as well as some high, forested
volcanic islands. The 600 or so Caroline Islands span nearly 3000 km of the
Pacific and lie 1000 km south of Guam. The State of Chuuk, known as Truk
until 1990, consists of 11 high, mangrove-fringed volcanic islands within
the sapphire-blue lagoon. This lagoon, one of the largest barrier reefs in
the world, holds a captive fleet of half-submerged mountain peaks, as well
as over 70 brooding purple sunken hulks, remnants of WW II. On February 17,
1944, the USA unleashed Operation Hailstone, one of the most incisive aerial
attacks in history. For two days and a night, aircraft from the nine
carriers hammered the islands in 30 waves. Japan lost 250 planes, nearly 60
vessels, and thousands of men. The 180,000 tons of shipping sunk set a
two-day WW II record. Late on the evening of 18 April, we navigated the
entrance of Chuuk lagoon. Just prior to entering the lagoon, we spotted half
a dozen "Atoll" Shearwaters, adding another tubenose to our growing species
list. Plans were made for the next day. We divided ourselves into three
groups: those who wanted to snorkel and tour the town, those who wanted to
bird Weno and those who wanted to bird the island of Tol South. I choose the
second group. Seven of us headed to shore about 6:45 am, stopping to watch
the self-introduced Tree Sparrows on the dock. Our next stop was the Truuk
Stop Dive Shop. Here we enjoyed a cold drink, while watching Micronesian
Mysomelas feeding on flowers. We had already encountered several Caroline
Reed-Warblers which can be found in just about any habitat, including
feeding on lawns. Crimson-crowned Fruit-Doves were easily found in town. A
Common Sandpiper along with several Ruddy Turnstones were along the
shoreline. However, we were unable to find the Rufous Night Heron which was
seen from the ship's deck the previous evening. Each of us paid $5 to hitch
a ride in the dive shop's van to visit "Nefo Cave" on western Weno where
there is a tunnel and a big Japanese Gun. We were deposited at the road's
dead end. From here, we birded at our leisure. And, it was marvelous!
Between us, we were able to locate a number of our sought after species:
Caroline Islands White-eyes, including one carrying grubs to young in a
nest; Oceanic Flycatchers feeding dependent young; a male Caroline
Ground-Dove bringing nesting material to a female who was shaping the nest,
high in a large tree on the hillside; nesting Micronesian Starlings; and
half dozen Blue-faced Parrotfinches along the roadside. We took a short hike
up the hillside to see the gun and tunnel. On the other side of the tunnel,
we had a view below of an extensive wetland where a Pacific Duck was on a
nest. Suddenly, a torrential downpour blotted out our views and the sky
filled with swarming Caroline Island Swiftlets. We remained dry in our
sheltered cave. Finally, we walked to town, downhill, about 2 miles. We were
able to enjoy the people along the way, as well as continue birding. One
tree alone held over 40 Micronesian Myzomelas! A Pacific Golden Plover was
spotted on a lawn. Once in town, we made stops at the post office and
grocery stores for "goodies." That evening, we met up with our fellow
passengers. The snorkeling group had a good time, while the birding group to
Tol South had an extremely difficult climb up a sheer rock wall. They did
manage to see the very rare Faichuk White-eye. Some glimpsed the Truk
Monarch. Otherwise, they saw all of the same species we had seen, but with
more difficulty, than those of us at Weno observed. We pulled anchor, and
began our very long voyage to Yokohama, Japan.
Debi Shearwater, in the Caroline Islands
BISMARK SEA: BECK'S PETREL!
14- 17 April: BISMARK SEA & NEW IRELAND, PAPAU NEW GUINEA. We spent the next
four days, at sea within the boundaries of Papau New Guinea waters in the
Bismark archipelago, offshore from Bougainville Island and New Ireland. Our
main target and hope was to find the recently rediscovered Beck's Petrel, a
Critically Endangered species. Until its rediscovery in 2007 by Hadoram
Shirihai, it was only known from two specimens collected in the 1920s. These
two specimens were collected by Rollo Beck in 1928 and 1929 during the
Whitney South Sea Expedition. Beck was the first ornithologist to use chum
to attract seabirds. The petrel was thought to be extinct. After more than
79 years, Hadoram mounted an expedition during which he was able to document
the species with conclusive photographs. Using four tons of grated fish for
chum over the course of 67 hours, Hadoram rediscovered the Beck's Petrel.
Although we had nowhere near the amount of chum or time that Hadoram had on
his expedition, we did achieve success! Everyone on board was able to
observe about 4 to 6 individual Beck's Petrels, sometimes in direct
comparison with the similar, but larger, Tahiti Petrels on 15 April. In
addition, another highlight of this region was sightings of about 10
Heinroth's Shearwaters on 13 April, as we were departing the Solomon
Islands. This little known shearwater has been seen by only a few people.
Another highlight was sighting Sperm Whales, False Killer Whales and Dwarf
Pygmy Sperm Whales, logging on the sea. Elated and thrilled, we continued
our journey on board the "Spirit of Enderby" on the flat, calm, hot, humid
sultry seas.
Debi Shearwater, reporting from the Bismark Archipelago
four days, at sea within the boundaries of Papau New Guinea waters in the
Bismark archipelago, offshore from Bougainville Island and New Ireland. Our
main target and hope was to find the recently rediscovered Beck's Petrel, a
Critically Endangered species. Until its rediscovery in 2007 by Hadoram
Shirihai, it was only known from two specimens collected in the 1920s. These
two specimens were collected by Rollo Beck in 1928 and 1929 during the
Whitney South Sea Expedition. Beck was the first ornithologist to use chum
to attract seabirds. The petrel was thought to be extinct. After more than
79 years, Hadoram mounted an expedition during which he was able to document
the species with conclusive photographs. Using four tons of grated fish for
chum over the course of 67 hours, Hadoram rediscovered the Beck's Petrel.
Although we had nowhere near the amount of chum or time that Hadoram had on
his expedition, we did achieve success! Everyone on board was able to
observe about 4 to 6 individual Beck's Petrels, sometimes in direct
comparison with the similar, but larger, Tahiti Petrels on 15 April. In
addition, another highlight of this region was sightings of about 10
Heinroth's Shearwaters on 13 April, as we were departing the Solomon
Islands. This little known shearwater has been seen by only a few people.
Another highlight was sighting Sperm Whales, False Killer Whales and Dwarf
Pygmy Sperm Whales, logging on the sea. Elated and thrilled, we continued
our journey on board the "Spirit of Enderby" on the flat, calm, hot, humid
sultry seas.
Debi Shearwater, reporting from the Bismark Archipelago
Saturday, April 17, 2010
KOLOMBANGARA ISLAND
13 April: KOLOMBANGARA ISLAND is a classic volcanic cone which is 30 km
across and rises to 1770 m. Most of the lowland forest was felled below 400
m by 1990. We made an afternoon Zodiac landing at the site of a Seventh Day
Adventist College. Two walks were on offer: one climbing a steep, muddy hill
and one around the campus of the college through a small secondary forest. I
opted for the second walk and was not disappointed. Here I caught up with
several of the archipelago endemics which I had previously missed: Pied
Goshawk, Buff-headed Coucal, White-capped Monarch, Mackinlay's Cuckoo-dove,
Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeon, Singing Parrot, Moustached Treeswift,
Melanesian Cuckoo-shrike and Singing Starling. A pair of Duchess Lorikeets,
endemic to this island were a quick fly-by. Finally, both groups met to
search for the Rovianna Rail. After trying many areas, including the village
itself (despite the numerous feral cats about!), and after extending our
time on shore, we had to give up the search to get underway, again. However,
on our return to the ship, Adam Riley of Rockjumper Bird Tours, called out,
"There it is!" I looked down a mowed patch in the midst of a tapioca garden
and saw the rail, dashing across the open area! Only one other person saw
it. Our leader, Chris, tried to tape it out into view again without any
success. We returned to our ship and got underway, once again.
Debi Shearwater, birding in the New Georgia Islands of the Solomon Islands
across and rises to 1770 m. Most of the lowland forest was felled below 400
m by 1990. We made an afternoon Zodiac landing at the site of a Seventh Day
Adventist College. Two walks were on offer: one climbing a steep, muddy hill
and one around the campus of the college through a small secondary forest. I
opted for the second walk and was not disappointed. Here I caught up with
several of the archipelago endemics which I had previously missed: Pied
Goshawk, Buff-headed Coucal, White-capped Monarch, Mackinlay's Cuckoo-dove,
Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeon, Singing Parrot, Moustached Treeswift,
Melanesian Cuckoo-shrike and Singing Starling. A pair of Duchess Lorikeets,
endemic to this island were a quick fly-by. Finally, both groups met to
search for the Rovianna Rail. After trying many areas, including the village
itself (despite the numerous feral cats about!), and after extending our
time on shore, we had to give up the search to get underway, again. However,
on our return to the ship, Adam Riley of Rockjumper Bird Tours, called out,
"There it is!" I looked down a mowed patch in the midst of a tapioca garden
and saw the rail, dashing across the open area! Only one other person saw
it. Our leader, Chris, tried to tape it out into view again without any
success. We returned to our ship and got underway, once again.
Debi Shearwater, birding in the New Georgia Islands of the Solomon Islands
GUADALCANAL ISLAND: SOLOMONS
12 April: GUADALCANAL ISLAND in the Solomon Islands. This is the largest
island in the archipelago and is home to the national capital, Honiara where
about 57,000 people live. Most of us did not have any time in the city and
spent all of our time ashore in search of birds. The wake-up call was at
3:45 am. At 4:30 am, we made a dry landing by Zodiac at the rather dingy
dock. It was still dark and the rank smell of bagged copra hung in the humid
air. We boarded the bus for the 45 minute ride up to Mount Austin. Once at
the top, we walked downhill along a logging road to the Lungga River.
Birding was excellent! Some of the species I encountered were: Ducorp's
Cockatoo, Solomon Islands Cuckoo-shrike, Steel-blue Flycatcher, White-winged
Fantail, Brown-winged Starling, Cardinal Lory, Claret-breasted and Superb
Fruit-doves; and Black-headed Myzomela. I walked alone for part of the time.
At one point I could hear the calls of the Blyth's Hornbill— even its wings
beating as it flew from one tree to the next. Finally, our local guide got
me on this magnificent hornbill, as it was feeding in the treetops, only a
few feet off the road! At the river, I took photos of my friend, Jim, for
whom Guadalcanal held a special significance due to the war. Sitting around
and taking in the view, we spotted a beautiful male Electus Parrot, which
Jim got in his scope. Finally, we both saw a White-billed Crow flying over
the canopy. It was a very successful landing for us! By 1 pm, we had boarded
the bus to return to our ship and head for our next stop.
Debi Shearwater, birding in the Solomon Islands
island in the archipelago and is home to the national capital, Honiara where
about 57,000 people live. Most of us did not have any time in the city and
spent all of our time ashore in search of birds. The wake-up call was at
3:45 am. At 4:30 am, we made a dry landing by Zodiac at the rather dingy
dock. It was still dark and the rank smell of bagged copra hung in the humid
air. We boarded the bus for the 45 minute ride up to Mount Austin. Once at
the top, we walked downhill along a logging road to the Lungga River.
Birding was excellent! Some of the species I encountered were: Ducorp's
Cockatoo, Solomon Islands Cuckoo-shrike, Steel-blue Flycatcher, White-winged
Fantail, Brown-winged Starling, Cardinal Lory, Claret-breasted and Superb
Fruit-doves; and Black-headed Myzomela. I walked alone for part of the time.
At one point I could hear the calls of the Blyth's Hornbill— even its wings
beating as it flew from one tree to the next. Finally, our local guide got
me on this magnificent hornbill, as it was feeding in the treetops, only a
few feet off the road! At the river, I took photos of my friend, Jim, for
whom Guadalcanal held a special significance due to the war. Sitting around
and taking in the view, we spotted a beautiful male Electus Parrot, which
Jim got in his scope. Finally, we both saw a White-billed Crow flying over
the canopy. It was a very successful landing for us! By 1 pm, we had boarded
the bus to return to our ship and head for our next stop.
Debi Shearwater, birding in the Solomon Islands
Thursday, April 15, 2010
MAKIRA ISLAND: SOLOMON ISLANDS
11 April: MAKIRA ISLAND in the Solomon Islands. We left behind the outlier,
Rennell Island and reached Makira Island by early morning. It is also known
as San Cristobal Island. The forested mountains of this island support the
most single-island endemics of the archipelago. We had planned to land near
a logging operation and hike the logging road. However, as the first two of
our Zodiacs approached the landing area, we were met by a local boat of men,
one of whom was the Chief of this land. He informed us that we did not have
permission to land at the logging site. After much (valuable morning
birding) time was spent in launching the other Zodiacs, and following the
local chief by boat navigating around the coral reefs, we finally landed.
After landing, we hiked up a very steep, single file trail in search of
birds. As anyone who has birded rain forests anywhere in the world knows,
trying to find birds with a group size of 30 is nearly impossible. This
proved to be extremely frustrating! Still, we did manage to see: Brahminy
Kite, Solomon Islands Sea Eagle, Pied Goshawk, Chestnut-bellied Pigeon (very
rare), Rainbow Lorikeet, Glossy Swiftlet, Long-tailed Triller, Ochre-headed
Flycatcher, Golden Whistler and Sooty Myzomela. In the afternoon, we visited
the Anuatu Village, the village of the Chief.
Debi Shearwater, in the Solomon Islands
Rennell Island and reached Makira Island by early morning. It is also known
as San Cristobal Island. The forested mountains of this island support the
most single-island endemics of the archipelago. We had planned to land near
a logging operation and hike the logging road. However, as the first two of
our Zodiacs approached the landing area, we were met by a local boat of men,
one of whom was the Chief of this land. He informed us that we did not have
permission to land at the logging site. After much (valuable morning
birding) time was spent in launching the other Zodiacs, and following the
local chief by boat navigating around the coral reefs, we finally landed.
After landing, we hiked up a very steep, single file trail in search of
birds. As anyone who has birded rain forests anywhere in the world knows,
trying to find birds with a group size of 30 is nearly impossible. This
proved to be extremely frustrating! Still, we did manage to see: Brahminy
Kite, Solomon Islands Sea Eagle, Pied Goshawk, Chestnut-bellied Pigeon (very
rare), Rainbow Lorikeet, Glossy Swiftlet, Long-tailed Triller, Ochre-headed
Flycatcher, Golden Whistler and Sooty Myzomela. In the afternoon, we visited
the Anuatu Village, the village of the Chief.
Debi Shearwater, in the Solomon Islands
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