WHERE IS SVALBARD?

SVALBARD: LAND OF HIGH ARCTIC DREAMS

Svalbard is an archipelago in the Arctic. In a relatively small area, Svalbard offers an amazing range of different landscapes and wildlife, giving it a character all its own. The beauty of the place and relative ease with which it may be approached by ship, makes West Spitsbergen a top attraction. West Spitsbergen is the large island shown on the map, below. This very mountainous island, split with fjords, is the only island in the archipelago that is inhabited. Due to the Gulf Stream influence, which means less trouble with ice, tourism is concentrated on the west and northwest coasts. The nutrient rich seas and steep coastal rocks make this a place of enormous seabird colonies. Spitsbergen is more than 10 degrees north of the Arctic Circle. All three of Shearwater Journeys, Inc. charter voyages on board M/S Stockholm, will be centered in this region.

Svalbard lies midway between Norway and the North Pole, ranging from 74 to 81 degrees north latitude and 10 to 35 degrees east longitude. The islands were used extensively as a whaling base in the 17th and 18th centuries. Coal mining started in the 20th century. The Spitsbergen Treaty of 1920 recognizes Norwegian sovereignty, and the 1925 Svalbard Act made Svalbard a full part of the Kingdom of Norway.
The climate of Spitsbergen is determined by three main factors: its northerly position (causing the extremely cyclic annual supply of light and warmth from the sun), the strong influence of the surrounding ocean currents and the winds. The furthest reaches of the Gulf Stream culminate in the Spitsbergen Current, bringing a milder climate than in other places of the same latitude. Apart from the damper west coast, Spitsbergen has a dry steppe-like climate. During summer, precipitation is low — great for outdoor activities. Rainfall lasting more than a day is the exception, rather than the rule. More typical are some showers, drizzle and wet fog. The lower parts of the country are free from snow in summer. Don't count on dog sledding!
Longyearbyen, pictured above, is Svalbard's capital. It is located on the southern side on Adventfjorden. This down-to-earth town of approximately 2000, boasts Svalbard Museum, shopping, hotels, restaurants and tour companies catering to visitors who arrive on flights from Oslo. It is the largest settlement in Svalbard, and also has a hospital and schools. The Governor of Svalbard and his administration reside in Longyearbyen.
Most tourists to Longyearbyen arrive during the spring and summer, during the "polar day" when nearly 24 hours of sunlight prevails. It is the world's most northern readily accessible settlement, with Svalbard Airport just outside town offering regular public flights to and from Tromso and Osll. Such tourists usually connect with expedition ships at the town port, in search of the icon of the High Arctic— the POLAR BEAR!

If you would like to join our unique voyage to this wild region, please contact Debi Shearwater at debi@shearwaterjourneys.com; 831.637.8527. Shearwater Journeys' voyage runs from 8 to 18 July 2013 and it limited to only 12 adventurers. You can be wait listed for either of the first two voyages, 8-18 July 2012 or 28 June - 8 July 2013, as these are sold out. Reserve your cabin now. Image above by Adam Rheborg, copyright.

M/S STOCKHOLM

Howdy, Adventurers,

Shearwater Journeys, Inc. is proud to have booked three charter voyages on M/S Stockholm to SVALBARD'S HIGH ARCTIC:

8 - 18 JULY 2012 SOLD OUT

28 JUNE - 8 JULY 2013 SOLD OUT

8 - 18 JULY 2013 OPEN FOR BOOKINGS

In this post, I shall describe our vessel, crew and overall voyage plans. Please note that this is the same vessel that we'll be using for the SPRING SCOTLAND VOYAGE. I will be on board the Scotland voyage, but have not chartered the vessel solely for Shearwater Journeys, Inc.

WHY I CHOOSE M/S STOCKHOLM:

I choose M/S Stockholm because I believe this is the vessel that can achieve the highest quality Arctic voyage at the best value. This is the only owner-operated expedition vessel that I know of anywhere in the world. What does that mean? It means that the Captain at the helm actually owns this vessel, and has for decades. As the owner, he is fully aware of the capabilities of his ship. It means that he will put her closer to the landing sites, thereby reducing our ship to shore time. This allows us more time on shore. Most Captains of expedition ships are hired for an entire season. Their job depends on not causing any problems or damage to the ship, and keeping passengers safe. Some Captains come on board a particular ship for the very first time. Naturally, they tend to be cautious, and sometimes, overly cautious. This can mean a long ride to shore by Zodiac, as the Captain anchors the ship far offshore. Not so with M/S Stockholm's Captain. Since it is his very own ship, he knows her more intimately than just about any Captain can know a ship. This is a real plus for the passengers on board.

Most of the smaller, 55 passenger ships built in Finland for the Russians have ceased operation. (I chartered such a ship in January 2010 for an epic voyage to Antarctica, South Georgia and The Falkland Islands). Most expedition ships now carry 100 or 100+ passengers. While skilled staff can juggle 100 passengers on landings in Antarctica, landings in the High Arctic are quite different. Because of the ever present possibility of an encounter on land with a polar bear, passengers must stay with the group leader who carries a rifle for this purpose, in case of a surprise attack. Therefore, passengers cannot wander off finding their own private spot for viewing and photographing wildlife. All passengers must stay with the leader at all times on shore. Imagine trying to see and photograph wildlife with 50 other folks (assuming that the group is split in to two)? This is not a high quality experience. It is an experience, but certainly not high quality. I speak from my own personal experience as staff on a voyage to Svalbard several years ago. With only 12 passengers on board, we will all be able to land in one Zodiac ride. There will be no waiting on deck while others land. We will be able to have quality encounters on shore, in an our small group of likeminded travelers. With such a small group of adventurers, we will have far more flexibility in executing our activities. Finally, I choose this ship because I have been told by trusted friends who have been on board, that the Captain endeavors to deliver the very best wildlife experiences for all on board and that staff stays out on deck looking for wildlife, even when it is not their job. In other words, they give it their "all."

M/S Stockholm was built in 1953 for the Swedish National Maritime Administration as a working vessel in the Baltic Sea. Thus, she was originally constructed for heavy ice conditions. In May 1999, she was completely refitted and refurbished for passenger travel in the Arctic. She is a marvelous piece of maritime history with beautiful brass details and pine decks. Despite her charming nostalgic appearance, M/S Stockholm is equipped with the latest navigation and safety devices. The ship's main observation deck is located on the upper deck and behind the bridge on the bridge deck. Close encounters with wildlife within safety restrictions, both on and off the ship, are above average when compared to other vessels. See below!

M/S Stockholm carries only 12 guests on any voyage. Small and agile, she is capable of navigating areas that larger ships simply cannot reach. In the lounge on the upper deck you can enjoy the surrounding landscapes. Here, staff present lectures about the areas where we travel. In the lounge, you will also find the bar and a small library.The restaurant on the main deck seats all passengers and expedition staff in one single seating. Past travelers have reported to me that the food was "excellent." The open bridge policy contributes to the relaxed atmosphere on board. On the bridge you can see the GPS-equipped computers side by side with the original shining brass compass. Dress attire throughout the voyage is casual.

All cabins have bunk beds, upper and lower berths. All cabins are outside and have portholes, hooks, heaters, wardrobes, European 2-prong electrical outlets, waste paper basket and mirror. All cabins are en suite. In the bathroom you will find a shower, mirror, towel hangers, hooks and shower curtain.

SAFETY: M/S Stockholm exceeds all SOLAS requirements (Safety Of Life At Sea) and is equipped with the latest communication and navigation devices. M/S Stockholm's total life boat and raft capacity is 50 passengers. These are equipped with drinking water, survival equipment and food rations. For emergency situations, Immersion Suits of the highest grade are stocked on board.

STATISTICS:

Country of registry: Sweden

Gross tonnage: 361

Official language: English/Swedish

Length: 40 meters

Width: 8.8 meters

Draft: 3.7 meters

Zodiacs: 2

Passenger capacity: 12

Crew capacity: 7

Speed: 10.4 knots

All landings and excursions are achieved by Zodiacs. The Zodiac is easily accessed by a short set of steps from the upper deck. A Zodiac takes you to shore, where you will step into the water— you'll need waterproof boots and outerwear, including pants for this. If you have traveled to Antarctica, you know the drill. Once on board the ship, Zodiac instructions will be given. During all Zodiac operations, you will wear a horseshoe type life jacket which has both manuel and automatic inflation.

Although I have not yet made a voyage on this ship, my research and encounters with those who have place it high above any other polar operation. As one trusted friend said to me, M/S Stockholm is the creme de la creme!" I believe it!

For more information, or to reserve your berths, please contact me: Debi Shearwater, debi@shearwaterjourneys.com; 831-637-8527. Images copyright, Vera Simonsson and JP Lahall.

Wishing you smooth sailing,

Debi Shearwater

debi@shearwaterjourneys.com

SPRING IN SCOTLAND: A VOYAGE TO THE HEBRIDES & ST. KILDA

Howdy, Birders,

Traveling by ship through the isles of Scotland has long been a dream of mine. Well, it is about to become reality! I invite you to join me on a journey to the Hebrides and St. Kilda on an all inclusive voyage, 24 April through 2 May, 2012.

This unique voyage which begins in Oban, takes us to the Inner and Outer Hebrides. Followed by NORTHERN GANNETS, below, NORTHERN FULMARS and ATLANTIC PUFFINS, we will explore the lovely green island of Iona, the spectacular cave Fingals's Cave on the small island Staffa and other beautiful islands. This unique voyage is strictly limited to 12 guests. As of this writing, 8 berths are available.

Islay is the southernmost island of the Inner Hebrides and is often referred to as the "Queen of the Hebrides." It is renowned worldwide not only for its many distilleries producing single malts with smooth, full, rich and peaty character. We will visit the single malt distillery, Laphroaig, below. I've wanted to visit this particular distillery ever since the Scotsman, Peter Roberts, offered me my first glass of this distinctive, peaty single malt on my first Antarctica voyage on board the M/V Explorer, in 2001!

We will visit Iona, Staffa and Treshnish Islands. Iona has been an island of deep spiritual significance for more than 1000 years. No less than 62 Kings of Scotland are buried here, including Duncan I who was murdered by Macbeth. Weather permitting, we will make a stop at the island of Staffa to view the amazing Fingal's cave. We'll sail west and explore the tiny Treshnish Islands, located in the waters between Mull and Tiree. Now uninhabited, this group of low islands are home to thousands of seabirds and a large population of Common and Atlantic Gray Seals. We hope to land on the largest of the islands, Lunga, to walk amongst the surprisingly tame Atlantic Puffins and see remnants of past habitation that dates back to the Viking period.

Through the Sound of Harris we shall head to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of St. Kilda, a remarkable uninhabited archipelago some fifty miles beyond the Outer Hebrides. Far flung and breathtakingly wild, St. Kilda is one of Scotland's most outstanding natural spectacles. It is a dual World Heritage Site, listed for both its natural environment and cultural significance.

We will drop anchor in Village Bay on the main island Hirta and wander through the remnants of the village. The last islanders were evacuated in the 1930s. We will cruise past the impressive island of Boreray and the amazing Stac an Amin and Stac Lee, where tens of thousands, indeed the world's largest colony of NORTHERN GANNETS nest. (60,000 pairs) Up close it is difficult to know what is more impressive: the seething mass of life or the savage grandeur of the towering cliffs on which the seabirds nest. Along with the gannets are colonies of Northern Fulmars and Atlantic Puffins. GREAT SKUA also breeds here. Boreray is a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), part of the North Uist Machair & Islands Special Protected Area (SPA) and a Ramsar site.
On the west side of the Isle of Lewis we shall visit the Callanish Stones, a cross-shaped setting of the standing stones erected around 3000 BC. This is one of the most incredible megalithic monuments in Scotland.
The main occupations on the islands are fishing, sheep farming and tweed production. Other wildlife we may encounter include MINKE WHALE and BASKING SHARK.

The small island of Canna has a tiny agricultural and cattle-rearing population. From a walk along the cliff top we shall have stunning views and may see Golden Eagles, White-tailed Eagles and Peregrine Falcons. The adjoining island of Rum is a nature reserve and an oasis for birders. We shall pay a visit to Kinloch Castle, an eclectic 19th century turreted castle built by the Bullough family. Manx Shearwaters formerly nested on Canna, but have declined seriously due to brown rats.

If this voyage interests you please contact me at debi@shearwaterjourneys.com; 831-637-8527, as soon as possible. It is expected to sell out quickly. The fee of $5585 per person INCLUDES the following: 7 nights on board M/S Stockholm; one night hotel in Glasgow; transfer Glasgow-Oban; all meals on board; all wine, beer and drinks; an experienced Expedition Leader/knowledgable naturalist guide; lectures on board and on shore; all shore excursions and activities by Zodiac; the customary gratuity to the ship's crew; a detailed log book. NOT INCLUDED: Flights to/from Glasgow; travel and cancellation insurance; personal expenses. Some excellently priced airfares are available during the time of this voyage.

Scotland by sea is a voyage not to be missed! I hope you will join me.

Gannets forever,

Debi Shearwater

Please note: Our exact route will depend on weather conditions and wildlife sightings. The places mentioned above are the planned itinerary, but can be changed. We always strive to maximize your experience. Remember, flexibility is the key to a successful expedition. This voyage will take place on board M/S Stockholm, a classic vessel built in 1953 for The Swedish National Maritime Administration. In 1999 she was totally refurbished and began her career as a comfortable passenger ship. She carries a maximum of 12 passengers in outside twin cabins, all with upper and lower berths and private facilities. She is a marvelous piece of maritime history with beautiful brass details and pine decks. This is an entirely different experience and perspective to that of a larger vessel. On board you will enjoy delicious meals in the company of likeminded travelers who enjoy the natural world. The food is of good quality. All beverages are included. A trip on board M/S Stockholm in this remote region with its unique wildlife and intact nature is a most unusual experience.

All images, copyright: Jonas Sundquist, Olle Carlsson, Oscar Westman, Shearwater Journeys.

SAN BENITO COUNTY BIRDING: SANTA ANA & PANOCHE VALLEY

Howdy, Birders,

This is a brief report for Panoche Valley, Paicines Reservoir and Santa Ana Valley, birding in San Benito County, California for Sunday, January 29, 2012. It was a gorgeous day for birding — I couldn't resist getting out there!

PRAIRIE FALCONS continued at all three locations. Birders who were already at Paicines Reservoir when I arrived, said that a Prairie Falcon had just been there. Look on the "H" shaped telephone poles on the west side. The Prairie Falcon, below, was along Santa Ana Valley Road.

By now you, dear reader know how much I love shades of brown. This tangle of oak branches easily conceals an adult GOLDEN EAGLE, below. This eagle repeatedly let out a plaintive call while sitting in this tree. It could have been calling for its' mate.
Sadly, one of my most favorite barns went down with the last storm. GREAT-HORNED OWLS have nested in this barn for the past 12 years.

At PAICINES RESERVOIR I found 1 EURASIAN WIGEON, 2 CACKLING GEESE, 5 WHITE-FRONTED GEESE, one 4th year BALD EAGLE in the morning and one adult MALE BALD EAGLE in the late afternoon, 1 SPOTTED SANDPIPER and an assortment of waterfowl. For some reason, this BUSHTIT, below, popped up, chattering and scolding, on the fence right in front of me while I was standing at the dirt pullout, scoping waterfowl at the reservoir!

On PANOCHE ROAD I found the "usual suspects," including PHAINOPEPLA, RUFOUS-CROWNED SPARROW, HERMIT THRUSH, etc. Quite a few singing CALIFORNIA THRASHERS, WRENTITS, OAK TITS, etc. as is normal for this time of year. Two HOODED MERGANSERS were at the pond at Summit Ranch. Be sure to look on the duck house! (I failed to find the Yellow-bellied Sapsucker which had been around for several weeks). At the intersection of Panoche and Recalde Roads, a MERLIN was present. Sixteen MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS were along Recalde Road. On Panoche Road from Silver Creek Ranch to Jackass Pass at least 28 MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS were in mixed flocks with House Finches. Unusual birds included one SAGE SPARROW and one male NORTHERN HARRIER. A FERRUGINOUS HAWK was hunting here, also.
Continuing with my love of old barns— this one, above, is located on Panoche Road. A CALIFORNIA THRASHER, below, was — well, thrashing away at the Miller Ranch. Thrashers are singing and on territory about mid-December. This one was no different. When it wasn't thrashing, it was singing from the tops of trees!
Large flocks of mixed sparrow species can be encountered on Panoche Road. This LINCOLN'S SPARROW, below, was with a large flock of WHITE-CROWNED SPARROWS near McCullough Ranch.
A female, AMERICAN KESTREL, below, near the intersection of Panoche and Little Panoche Roads.
MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS, a male below, were scattered on the Panoche Valley floor— near Silver Creek Ranch on Panoche Road and on Recalde Road.
An immature RED-TAILED HAWK, below, was on Panoche Road near Jackass Pass. Flocks of HORNED LARKS and AMERICAN PIPITS were also in this location. However, I did not locate a single MOUNTAIN PLOVER.
A LOGGERHEAD SHRIKE, below, hangs around Shotgun Pass on Little Panoche Road.
It has been a good year for finding BURROWING OWLS in San Benito County. They can be found in both Santa Ana Valley and Panoche Valley.
Returning from Panoche Valley, I always take Quien Sabe Road just south of the small town of Tres Pinos. The presence of six YELLOW-BILLED MAGPIES in the image below indicates that the adult GOLDEN EAGLE (look closely— it is the hump in the middle), had just consumed some prey item, likely a ground squirrel.

Sunset began with pinks and purples.

Late evening shot of a SAY'S PHOEBE, below, a grassland specialist.

Sunset colors begin to change to oranges.

Ravens head to their roosts on the tower powers of Santa Ana Valley.

The boldest colors of sunset over the grasslands that I love.

Happy Trails,

Debi Shearwater

San Benito County Birding

All images, copyright, Debi Shearwater. Please ask permission to use.

SAN BENITO COUNTY BIRDING:GLAUCOUS GULL, JANUARY 14, 2012

Howdy, Birders,

I've been lagging with my San Benito County birding recently, working on other projects. However, last Saturday, I buzzed out for an hour. Found this first cycle (SY) GLAUCOUS GULL amongst a flock of 500+ gulls. This is a rare gull in San Benito County. As far as I know, it is the fourth county record, and the first photographed record. The last reported record was 6 January 1999 at San Felipe Lake by John Sterling and John Luther. Amazingly, I received a report from Peter Colasanti that he found a first year GLAUCOUS GULL at San Felipe Lake on 15 January. Perhaps, it is this individual, or not. The flock that I saw also had at least on THAYER'S GULL and one GLAUCOUS-WINGED GULL. Best place to try to find the Glaucous Gull is San Felipe Lake which is on the north end of the county. Birding here, is extremely difficult and dangerous. The only reasonable place to stop is at the highway call box, and I only recommend it from the eastbound direction, otherwise it is necessary to cross traffic. Be aware: many fatal car accidents have occurred near this location. There is a pair of BALD EAGLES nesting here, just over the county line. The nest is in Santa Clara County. I would greatly appreciate any reports of the eagles or gulls.

And, for those of you who are gull lovers, if you have an opinion on the species, below, facing away from the photographer, ring out!

The GLAUCOUS GULL was a new county bird for me!

Happy Trails,

Debi Shearwater

San Benito County Birding

20th ANNUAL MASS AUDUBON BIRDERS MEETING: FEATURED SPEAKER-DEBI SHEARWATER

Howdy, Birders,

If you should find yourself near Boston, Massachusetts about March 3rd, please stop by and see me at the 20th Mass Aububon Birders Meeting! I will be speaking along with a host of many other top birders, researchers and local folks. My talk will be, "35 Years of California Seabirding." Registration is open at this time.

Hope to see many of my East Coast friends!

Debi Shearwater

News
The latest news from Mass Audubon.

Published: December 22, 2011

20th Annual Mass Audubon Birders Meeting

Saturday, March 3, 2012
The LaCava Center
Bentley University
Waltham, MA

Registration fee (which includes lunch):
$55 Mass Audubon members
($63 after Feb. 20)
$62 non-members
($70 after Feb. 20)
Walk-in registration available

If you enjoy birds and birding, The Birders Meeting is an event not to be missed! It offers something for everyone:

• Updates on changes in local bird populations
• Vendors galore
• Tempting raffle prizes

Schedule

Abstracts and Speaker Bios

This year's speakers include:

• Dr. Steven Kress, known for his efforts to re-establish Atlantic Puffins to the Gulf of Maine
• Debi Shearwater, founder of the well-known Shearwater Journeys, Inc. tour company
• Dr. David Wiley, scientist at Stellwagen Bank Marine Sanctuary and highly acclaimed for his underwater studies of humpback whale foraging behavior
• Shawn Carey and Jim Grady of Migration Productions, professional nature photographers and videographers who present stunning slideshows and videos.
• Anne-Marie Runfola, Volunteer Coordinator for NOAA/Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary, who developed the very successful Stellwagen Sanctuary Seabird Stewards volunteer program.
• Dr. Julie C. Ellis, professor at the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University, Executive Director of the Seabird Ecological Assessment Network, and an expert on seabirds and their communities.
• Brian Harrington, shorebird biologist at the Manomet Center for Conservation Sciences who is helping "Untie the Red Knot" and more.
• Joan Walsh, Director of Bird Monitoring at Mass Audubon, Coordinator of the Massachusetts Breeding Bird Atlas 2, has been key to the creation of Mass Audubon's State of the Birds.

Check back after January 1 for the complete schedule and to register online.