CAMPBELL ISLAND: BIRDING DOWN UNDER VOYAGE

Campbell Island, New Zealand's southernmost subantarctic territory is as rich and diverse as the other islands. We shall spend DAY 10 of the Birding Down Under Voyage at Perseverance Bay, exploring a myriad of wildlife.

A world center for albatross diversity, the Campbell Islands host more species than any other subantarctic group except Crozet in the southern Indian Ocean. At Campbell six species are breeding and one of the six breeds nowhere else, the Campbell mollymawk, pictured below. An estimated 26,000 pairs of Campbell Albatrosses breed. They nest on the northern part of the main island, either in their own colonies, or mixed with the Grey-headed Albatross which is circumpolar. The Campbell mollymawk is distinguished  from the similar looking Black-browed Albatross, another species that breeds here in low numbers, by its honey-colored iris, a bolder black eyebrow and a bill of slightly different color and shape.

The Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, below, typically nests on rocky cliff ledges and other steep places.

Two great albatrosses nest at Campbell: the Southern Royal Albatross, below, and in very low numbers, the Antipodean Albatross. Campbell Island is the Southern Royal's main breeding ground. An estimated 14,000 pairs breed here.

Campbell Island is also the main breeding ground for the Yellow-eyed Penguin, a New Zealand endemic and one of the world's rarest penguins. Large numbers of White-chinned Petrels and Sooty Shearwaters breed here, along with Northern Giant Petrels, Diving Petrel and Grey-backed Storm-Petrel. The New Zealand Antarctic Tern has its stronghold here. It is a rare subspecies (possible species?) restricted to the New Zealand subantarctic islands and Stewart Island. Brown Skua also nests here.

Grassland covers much of the island, but megaherbs, above, occur from sea level to the summit ridges.

Three land birds occur here: a teal, above, a snipe and New Zealand pipit. The snipe was discovered in 1997 on Jacquemart Island. The flightless Campbell Island Teal, one of the world's rarest ducks was rediscovered on Dent Island, off Northwest Bay in 1975. Related to the Auckland Island Teal and endangered Brown Teal of mainland New Zealand, it feeds mainly on aquatic or marine invertebrates.

Among the marine mammals, seals are well represented at Campbell Island. There are populations of New Zealand Sea Lion, New Zealand Fur Seal and Southern Elephant Seal.

The removal of sheep and cattle changed the island. But it was the rat eradication program that really brought the island back, including the megaherbs. This is one of the most sensational stories in seabird conservation. The New Zealanders went on to become worldwide experts in the eradication of rats from islands. They are currently working to remove rats from South Georgia, another one of the world's most spectacular subantarctic islands.

We depart for the Antipodes Islands at day's end and spend DAY 11 at sea.

Birding Down Under,

Debi Shearwater

ON BOARD PLANCIUS: October 22 & 23, 2010

FROM: Debi Shearwater Cabin 602
SUBJECT: ON BOARD m/v PLANCIUS: October 22 & 23, 2010

OCTOBER 22 & 23, 2010

Howdy, Birders,

October 22 marked a significant change in the array of seabird life. The
morning dawned, bright and sunny. No longer did we find Sooty and
Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatrosses, Spectacled Petrel or White-bellied
Storm-Petrel. Instead, we are now observing Light-mantled Sooty
Albatrosses and Wandering Albatrosses in greater numbers, as well as our
first COMMON DIVING PETRELS and good numbers of KERGUELAN PETRELS. It
appears that we crossed the Antarctic Convergence, or Polar Front, last
night. KING PENGUINS appeared more regularly. They feed near the Polar
Front, primarily on lantern fish. A small group of toothed whales
briefly appeared alongside the ship. One incredibly lucky lady,
Natatlie, was able to fire off some shots of these enigmatic
mesoplodons! Her images show what might well be, STRAP-TOOTHED WHALES— a
group with females and, possibly a calf! After the sunny morning, we
spent most of the day in and out of fog.

We continued watching for wildlife, but many folks began editing their
photographs on October 23. The sea conditions and weather were holding
up nicely. Excitement was high, as we encountered our first sight of
Main Island, one of the offshore islands of South Georgia. On board, we
have a small group of rugged mountaineering climbers and skiers who plan
to traverse the historic Shackleton route across the massive, snow
capped and glaciated mountains of South Georgia. They were busy making
final preparations for this incredible trek.

Late afternoon, we arrived at King Haakon Bay, which lies between Nunez
Peninsula and Bomford Peninsula near the western end of the south coast
of South Georgia. It was here that Shackleton and his five companions
arrived on the James Caird at the end of their epic sea voyage from
Elephant Island. During this 16 day voyage, they covered some 800 miles
in their small vessel. Delighted upon arrival at Cave Cove, they made a
stew from pure, ice-cold water and four young Wandering Albatross
chicks. After a few days' rest, they sailed to the head of the bay and
established "Peggotty" camp. The James Caird was turned upside down to
form a shelter for the men who remained behind, while Shackleton, Crean
and Worsley set off across the island to Stromness Whaling Station.

Our plan was to land at Cave Cove, but the swell was too difficult.
Instead, we enjoyed a beautiful Zodiac cruise along the shoreline, with
as many as 12 LIGHT-MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSSES in spectacular courtship
flight, sitting on potential nest sites and calling all the while.
Landing at Peggotty Bluff, we found many SOUTHERN ELEPHANT SEALS,
including large bulls! A few KING PENGUINS stood in the meltwater
stream. Giant Petrels and the first SNOWY SHEATHBILLS and SOUTH GEORGIA
PINTAILS of our voyage. Finally, we were all so thrilled to be on land
for the first time in nearly six days' time. Our mountaineering party of
eight, headed off to the peaks and glaciers, following in Shackleton's
footsteps.

LMSAs forever,
Debi Shearwater
On board m/v Plancius; South Georgia Exclusive Voyage