MACQUARIE ISLAND- AN AUSTRALIAN TERRITORY: BIRDING DOWN UNDER

Southwest of Campbell Island, at 54 degrees south, Macquarie Island is a relatively young island with tangible links to the New Zealand groups. It shares a number of plants as well as several seabird and marine mammal species with the New Zealand islands. Macquarie has no woody plants among its 41 native species. Sprawling penguin colonies and large numbers of elephant seals are among the island;s wildlife features. 

The great Australian Antarctic Explorer Sir Douglas Mawson once called Macquarie Island,"One of the wonder spots of the world." We shall spend DAYS 7 and 8 during the Birding Down Under Voyage observing and photographing the wildlife of Macquarie Island which was one of the first subantarctic island to obtain World Heritage Status, largely due to its unique geology. It is one of the few places on earth where mid-ocean coastal rocks are exposed at the surface due to the collision of the Australian and Pacific Plates. 

Macquarie Island is home to four species of penguins, Kings, Royals, Gentoo and Rockhopper. 

 The Royal Penguin, above and below, occurs nowhere else in the world. 

 Royal Penguin with chick, below.

There is a pleasant boardwalk that leads to the heart of the colony.

Like all crested-type penguins, Royals are quarrelsome.

 

Mating Royal Penguins, below.

 At the beach, the Royal Pengins curiosity is quite amazing.

A Royal Penguin approaches Debi, below. 

The young folks, below, really did not know how to react to this!

The ever-present Brown Skua.

 This is a near magical experience, below, where King Penguins actually swim out to greet the boats.

 Especially so, considering that below, are the remains of the "penguin cookers" where King Penguins were boiled for their blubber.

 A Zodiac cruise along the shoreline reveals how huge the King Penguin colony is!

King Penguin colony, below.

 Scavenging Giant Petrels, below, as seen from the cruise in the kelp beds.

 This is the place to see Southern Elephant Seals, both in the water and on land.

 Nose of the Southern Elephant Seal, below.

 Pups are born in October and weaned in November when the breeding adults return to the sea. The weaners and sub adults lie about the beaches until they go to sea in January, running the gauntlet of Killer Whales who are waiting offshore!

Macquarie Island was discovered in 1810 and was soon ravaged by sealers who introduced various animals including rats, mice, cats and rabbits. The native bird population was virtually eliminated and plants destroyed. The Tasmanian National Parks and Wildlife Service which administered the island recently embarked on a very ambitious eradication program which seems to have been successful. The island is now predator free and both the birds and plants are responding. It is amazing to witness the regeneration and the increase in the numbers of birds. (When I last visited, rabbits, cats and rats still existed on this island!) 

We depart for Campbell Island on the afternoon of the second day.

Birding Down Under,

Debi Shearwater

BIRDING DOWN UNDER: AN EXPEDITION VOYAGE

 SUB-ANTARCTIC ISLANDS of NEW ZEALAND & AUSTRALIA

& 

THE CHATHAM ISLANDS

with 

DEBI SHEARWATER

NOVEMBER 9 - 25, 2014
SOLD OUT!

ROYAL PENGUINS at MACQUARIE ISLAND

Image by Debi Shearwater, copyright.

Listen to the names: Snares, Bounty, Antipodes, Campbell, Macquarie and Chatham Islands. They are music to the ears of 'birders.' Apart from the Chathams, these islands are probably more isolated now than they were when they were discovered in the late 1700's and early 1800's when they were regularly visited by sealers, whalers and government steamers searching for castaway sailors. It is relatively simple to get to the Chatham Islands but opportunities to visit the others are rare. This expedition is the only one to include all of the islands. 

The islands occur the tempestuous latitudes of the Roaring Forties and the Furious Fifties, but they are also known as the Albatross Latitudes and with great reason. Ten of the world's albatross species breed in the region; five of them nowhere else in the world! In fact this zone where the air is never still, hosts the most diverse collection of seabirds in the world! More than 40 species green down here— that is at least 11 percent of the entire world's seabird population. 

With the exception of the Chathams, the islands are all designated UNESCO World Heritage sites, and are afforded the highest conservation status and protection by the Australian and New Zealand governments. So passage to their shores is not granted lightly. There are also islands that we visit within the Chatham Archipelago with similar status and protection. 

This expedition has appeal to pelagic enthusiasts, penguin fanatics and those interested in island endemics. You do not have to be a keen birder to enjoy this voyage. People interested in islands and island ecology, botany, geology and an increasing number of photographers have enjoyed this trip immensely, as have those interested in the history of southern ocean discovery and exploration.

This is Heritage Expedition's signature expedition, one that has operated for over 20 years. You will enjoy the benefit from the knowledge and expertise they have gained over time. 

ITINERARY:

The itinerary, below, will be expanded in future blogs. This is a brief outline.

DAY 1: INVERCARGILL

Passengers should  make their way to the Kelvin Hotel in the central city where you will stay overnight, complimentary. This evening there will be an informal get together at the hotel for dinner, an excellent opportunity to meet fellow adventurers on your voyage and some of the expedition team. Dinner included.

DAY 2: PORT OF BLUFF

Take breakfast (included) at your leisure in the hotel restaurant before transferring to the port to embark the Spirit of Enderby. You will have the opportunity to settle into your cabin and familiarize yourself with the ship. We will take the opportunity to conduct a number of safety briefings. You are invited to join the expedition team and captain on the bridge as we set our course to The Snares. Our adventure begins!

DAY 3: THE SNARES— NORTH EAST ISLAND

DAY 4: AUCKLAND ISLANDS—ENDERBY ISLAND

DAY 5: AUCKLAND ISLANDS—CARNLEY HARBOR

DAY 6: AT SEA

As we make our way south through the Furious Fifties also known as Albatross Latitudes, the birding especially south of the Auckland Islands should be quite good. We will have a series of lectures on the biology and history of the Subantarctic Islands. We will also prepare you for our visit to Macquarie Island. 

Species that we may encounter include WANDERING ALBATROSS, ROYAL ALBATROSS, LIGHT-MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSS, SALVIN'S ALBATROSS, GREY-HEADED ALBATROSS; NORTHERN and SOUTHERN GIANT PETRELS; SOOTY and LITTLE SHEARWATERS. There should be plenty of PRIONS, including FAIRY, FULMAR and ANTARCTIC. Identifying prions is not easy— but, we should have some great views.

Other species to be on the lookout for include the SOFT-PLUMAGED PETREL, MOTTLED PETREL, WHITE-HEADED PETREL, WHITE-CHINNED PETREL, GRAY-BACKED STORM-PETREL, WILSON'S STORM-PETREL and BLACK-BELLIED STORM-PETREL.

DAY 7 to 8; MACQUARIE ISLAND

DAY 9: AT SEA

Today is a similar day to Day 6 except we are northbound and hopefully running with the prevailing weather which should make it a bit more comfortable. There will be lectures, opportunities for birding or just relaxing.

DAY 10: CAMPBELL ISLAND— PERSEVERANCE HARBOR

DAY 11: AT SEA

At sea en route to the Antipodes. It is a day for pelagic birding. Species commonly seen in this area include: WANDERING ALBATROSS, SOUTHERN ROYAL ALBATROSS, BLACK-BROWED ALBATROSS, CAMPBELL ISLAND ALBATROSS, GREY-HEADED ALBATROSS, LIGHT-MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSS, SALVIN'S ALBATROSS; NORTHERN and SOUTHERN GIANT PETRELS; SOOTY and LITTLE SHEARWATERS. This region of the Southern Ocean is one of the few places where the FAIRY PRION, FULMAR PRION and ANTARCTIC PRION occur together, providing good opportunities for comparison. Other species to be on the lookout for include: SOFT-PLUMAGED PETREL, GREY-FACED PETREL, WHITE-CHINNED PETREL, GREY-BACKED STORM-PETREL, WILSON'S STORM-PETREL, BLACK-BELLIED STORM-PETREL and COMMON DIVING PETREL. 

DAY 12: ANTIPODES ISLANDS

DAY 13: BOUNTY ISLANDS

DAY 14: AT SEA & WAITANGI— CHATHAM ISLANDS

As we continue toward the Chatham Archipelago there are excellent opportunities for pelagic birding. In particular, we will be on the lookout for the CHATHAM ISLAND PETREL which has been seen on this leg of past voyages. On past voyages, the very rare CHATHAM ISLAND TAIKO has been seen here. Endemic to the Chatham Islands, the Chatham Island Taiko also known as the MAGENTA PETREL— is among New Zealand's most endangered species. It is one of the world's rarest seabirds, with a population estimated to number less than 150.

Late into the evening we will arrive at the Chatham Islands. It is our intention to cruise along the south coast into an anchorage near Waitangi. The south coast is where the only known population of the TAIKO breed.s and also where they are attempting to establish a new population of the Chatham Island Petrel in a predator free area. We have seen both Taiko and Chatham Island Petrel in this area on previous expeditions. We are at anchor tonight.

DAY 15: CHATHAM ISLANDS— WAITANGI

DAY 16: PYRAMID ROCK, SOUTH EAST ISLAND & MANGERE ISLANDS

DAY 17: CHATHAM ISLAND— WAITANGI

This morning after breakfast you and your luggage will be ferried ashore by Zodiac and taken by coach to the Chatham Island Airport. A special charter flight (scheduled for approximately mid-day) will fly you back to Christchurch. Customs and quarantine formalities will be completed either before departing the Chatham Islands or on arrival in Christchurch.

In case of delays due to weather and/or operations, we ask you not to book any onward travel from Christchurch until the following day. Full details of this charter flight will be provided to you on receipt of booking with Shearwater Journeys, Inc. to allow you to plan from this date forward. On arrival in Christchurch, you will be transferred from the airport to a central city location. 

NOTE: During our voyage circumstances may make it necessary to deviate from the proposed itinerary. This can include poor weather and opportunities for unplanned excursions. Your Expedition Leader will keep you fully informed. Landings at the Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand are by permit only, as administered by the Government of New Zealand. No landings are permitted at The Snares, Antipodes or Bounties. Conditions permitting, we will Zodiac cruise these areas, however, in order to view the wildlife more closely. 

DATES: NOVEMBER 9 — 25, 2014

RATES/AVAILABILITY AS OF 2 SEPTEMBER 2013:

HERITAGE SUITE: $15000 pp- SOLD OUT

MINI SUITE: $14000 pp- 1 available

SUPERIOR PLUS: $13500 pp- 2 available

SUPERIOR: $12400 pp- 1 available

MAIN DECK: $11000 pp- 1 male sharing available

MAIN DECK TRIPLE: $10000 pp- 2 female berths available (Male cabin is SOLD OUT)

LANDING FEES: $750 pp.

DEPOSIT: 25% of the berth rate that you select is due at the time of booking. Please contact: Debi Shearwater; debi@shearwaterjourneys.com before sending your deposit to confirm that you are sending payment and that the berth(s) is available. A signed Booking Form must accompany the deposit. Send payment to: Shearwater Journeys, Inc., PO Box 190, Hollister, CA 95024. 

INCLUDED: Pre/post cruise transfers, one night hotel accommodation in a twin share room (dinner and breakfast included), all on board ship accommodations with all meals and all expedition excursions. 

NOT INCLUDED: Landing fees, $750; international/domestic flights; visas and travel insurance; laundry; drinks; customary gratuities; all items of a personal nature. Medical evacuation insurance is mandatory. All expedition companies require this sort of coverage today. We can offer guidance for making this purchase. 

SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND PRE-TRIP: SOLD OUT. 

TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA POST-TRIP: SOLD OUT. 

The BIRDING DOWN UNDER VOYAGE has been described as the greatest pelagic birding trip in the world. The 2012 voyage covered 2,718 nautical miles and saw:

9 SPECIES OF PENGUINS

14 SPECIES OF ALBATROSSES

44 SPECIES OF TUBENOSES

110 SPECIES OF BIRDS

5 SPECIES OF CETACEANS

4 SPECIES OF PINNIPEDS

THIS WILL BE MY THIRD TIME DOING THIS VOYAGE!

I HOPE YOU WILL JOIN ME, BIRDING DOWN UNDER,

DEBI SHEARWATER