ON BOARD PLANCIUS: October 22 & 23, 2010

FROM: Debi Shearwater Cabin 602
SUBJECT: ON BOARD m/v PLANCIUS: October 22 & 23, 2010

OCTOBER 22 & 23, 2010

Howdy, Birders,

October 22 marked a significant change in the array of seabird life. The
morning dawned, bright and sunny. No longer did we find Sooty and
Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatrosses, Spectacled Petrel or White-bellied
Storm-Petrel. Instead, we are now observing Light-mantled Sooty
Albatrosses and Wandering Albatrosses in greater numbers, as well as our
first COMMON DIVING PETRELS and good numbers of KERGUELAN PETRELS. It
appears that we crossed the Antarctic Convergence, or Polar Front, last
night. KING PENGUINS appeared more regularly. They feed near the Polar
Front, primarily on lantern fish. A small group of toothed whales
briefly appeared alongside the ship. One incredibly lucky lady,
Natatlie, was able to fire off some shots of these enigmatic
mesoplodons! Her images show what might well be, STRAP-TOOTHED WHALES— a
group with females and, possibly a calf! After the sunny morning, we
spent most of the day in and out of fog.

We continued watching for wildlife, but many folks began editing their
photographs on October 23. The sea conditions and weather were holding
up nicely. Excitement was high, as we encountered our first sight of
Main Island, one of the offshore islands of South Georgia. On board, we
have a small group of rugged mountaineering climbers and skiers who plan
to traverse the historic Shackleton route across the massive, snow
capped and glaciated mountains of South Georgia. They were busy making
final preparations for this incredible trek.

Late afternoon, we arrived at King Haakon Bay, which lies between Nunez
Peninsula and Bomford Peninsula near the western end of the south coast
of South Georgia. It was here that Shackleton and his five companions
arrived on the James Caird at the end of their epic sea voyage from
Elephant Island. During this 16 day voyage, they covered some 800 miles
in their small vessel. Delighted upon arrival at Cave Cove, they made a
stew from pure, ice-cold water and four young Wandering Albatross
chicks. After a few days' rest, they sailed to the head of the bay and
established "Peggotty" camp. The James Caird was turned upside down to
form a shelter for the men who remained behind, while Shackleton, Crean
and Worsley set off across the island to Stromness Whaling Station.

Our plan was to land at Cave Cove, but the swell was too difficult.
Instead, we enjoyed a beautiful Zodiac cruise along the shoreline, with
as many as 12 LIGHT-MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSSES in spectacular courtship
flight, sitting on potential nest sites and calling all the while.
Landing at Peggotty Bluff, we found many SOUTHERN ELEPHANT SEALS,
including large bulls! A few KING PENGUINS stood in the meltwater
stream. Giant Petrels and the first SNOWY SHEATHBILLS and SOUTH GEORGIA
PINTAILS of our voyage. Finally, we were all so thrilled to be on land
for the first time in nearly six days' time. Our mountaineering party of
eight, headed off to the peaks and glaciers, following in Shackleton's
footsteps.

LMSAs forever,
Debi Shearwater
On board m/v Plancius; South Georgia Exclusive Voyage

ON BOARD PLANCIUS: October 24, 2010

FROM: Debi Shearwater Cabin 602
SUBJECT: ON BOARD m/v PLANCIUS: October 24, 2010

OCTOBER 24, 2010

Howdy, Birders,

From sunrise to sunset, a full, busy, glorious day of teeming wildlife!
Even before the sun rose, we were landing at Salisbury Plain, a vast
expanse of glacial outwash formed by the retreat of Grace Glacier. This
is the largest level ground on South Georgia Island and home to the
second largest King Penguin colony on the island. It was here, in the
Bay of Isles that the famous American seabird researcher, Robert Cushman
Murphy spent 10 weeks compiling a chart of the bay while studying the
wildlife. Grace Glacier is named for his wife. He also kept a detailed
diary of his journey, later published as Logbook for Grace. It contains
an excellent account of the sealing activities.

It is quite difficult to describe the scene laid out before us—
thousands upon thousands of KING PENGUINS, many of them covered in the
brown fur-like coats, which caused early sealers to name them "Oakum
Boys," after the material that was used as a type of caulk between the
planks of their ships. Early biologists thought that these penguins were
a different species. After many years, biologists soon learned the
unique breeding cycle of the King Penguin. These were last year's
chicks, now large enough to be left by both parents. They stood,
protected in their creche, like teenagers on a street corner. One
curious individual was soon followed by half a dozen others. Heads
bobbing up and down with curiosity, they inspected me as I was sitting
on the bare ground—pecking at my boots and legs! We presented these
chicks with their first encounter with human beings. Non-breeding adults
standing in the streams, were just finishing their "catastrophic" molt.

Wildlife abounds at Salisbury Plain— giant petrels and skuas feeding on
the remains of the chicks who did not survive the winter; elephant seals
nursing newborn pups on the beaches; sheathbills picking bits of scraps;
and a few fur seals as well. For four glorious hours, in bright
sunshine, we enjoyed this most spectacular place. After brunch, we made
our second landing of the day at Rosita Harbor, a very sheltered spot.

Our third landing would be the crowning glory to an incredible day in
the Bay of Isles. Prion Island is a site of high environmental
sensitivity and exceptional conservation value. It is one of the few
rat-free tussac islands. As such, it is an important breeding site for
Wandering Albatrosses and the endemic SOUTH GEORGIA PIPIT. This island
has extensive areas of fragile vegetation. The tussac provides nesting
sites for the burrowing petrels, including Common Diving Petrels,
White-chinned Petrels, giant petrels and Antarctic Prions. A boardwalk
was constructed in 2008 for viewing the Wandering Albatrosses on their
nests. In small groups, we easily climbed the steps to platforms where
we could observe these incredible albatross chicks. Wandering
Albatrosses have declined by nearly 30% in the past 20 years. Currently,
the total breeding population on Prion Island is about 60 pairs, about
half of which nest on the island in any one year. At the landings, we
could see two different nests which contained very large chicks who sat
quietly, preening their feathers. The South Georgian Government only
allows groups of 15 persons per visit on the boardwalk at any given
time. So, groups must exchange after their allotted time slot is up. One
never can predict albatross behavior during each time slot. Most of the
time, the chicks simply sat in their nests, waiting for a parent's
return from the sea. Nearby two SOUTH GEORGIA PIPITS were coming and
going with mouths loaded with food, to their nest of young concealed
inside the tussac. Finally, we were lucky to see the adult female
albatross return to the nest to feed its enormous youngster. After a
greeting ceremony, the female was prompted to reguritate its food to the
begging chick. It was wonderful to be witness to this most magnificent
of albatrosses!

After a full and long day, we returned to our home aboard the ship for a
welcome dinner, recap and briefing of the next day's planned events.
Overnight, the ship repositioned for the next day's events.

Wandering albatrosses forever,
Debi Shearwater
On board m/v Plancius; South Georgia Exclusive Voyage

Farewell to South Georgia

15 January 2010
Godthul & Grytviken, South Georgia

It is amazing how much can be packed into one day! We began with a 4 am
wakeup call from Morten, our EL. By 4:30 am, about half of the ship's
passengers landed at Godthul. The very narrow, rocky beach required us
to carefully keep our distance from the wildlife. Nearly everyone hiked
up the hills with Don to a Gentoo Penguin colony. The colony had very
few chicks. The few remainging folks on the beach also noticed very few
fur seal pups. Researchers at South Georgia had predicted this outcome,
due to a very poor abundance of krill earlier this season. At 7 am, we
returned to the ship for breakfast, while our good Captain repositioned
the ship to Cumberland Bay.

By 9:30 am, we had disembarked the ship at Grytviken in Cumberland Bay.
First, we made our way to the small cemetery. Here, Don Doolittle said a
few words about Sir Ernest Shackleton, and we all toasted "The Boss."
Most of us visited the lovely museum, including the new exhibit of the
replica, James Caird. At the little white church, Jean Harding played
several songs on the organ and rang the church bells. The post office
did a brisk business, as this was the only place on our entire voyage
where folks could send postcards to home. Of course, we might get home,
ourselves, before the postcards arrive! One small group made a near
veritcal hike up the cliffs, led by our skillful doctor, Kate Goldberg,
and Don. Here, they had a great views of a Light-mantled Sooty
Albatross on the nest with a small chick. A light rain was falling. By 1
pm, we returned to our cozy ship, now our home. Before leaving the bay,
we took note of our first, lonely iceberg. More to come on that!

Recap was held in the bar. Morten reviewed our voyage progress to date.
All of us cheered our great forture to have such a brilliant Captain,
Alexander Pruss, and postively outstanding Expedition Leader in Morten.

We are now heading for ANTARCTICA! Fewer folks turned up for dinner,
though, as the seas are quite strong. We are experiencing the "washing
machine effect."

Albatrosses forever,
Debi Shearwater
On board Professor Multanovskiy, charter voyage

Landings: Salisbury Plain & Fortuna Bay

14 January 2010
South Georgia

After spending a very calm night in the sheltered lee near Salisbury
Plain, we made an early landing. The landing site was teaming with
wildlife! Southern Elephant Seals were scattered amongst the thousands
and thousands of Antarctic Fur Seals. The island's second largest King
Penguin colony is found here. It was a long hike to the colony because
the swell a the standard landing site was far too big for us to land
there. Led by Don Doolittle, we hiked about a mile, or so to the edge of
the colony. Along the way, we encountered several giant petrel and skua
chicks in their nests. Most folks spotted both the South Georgian Pintal
and Pipit. Once we arrived at the colony, the sounds and smells were
incredible. It was King Penguins for as far as we could see! Lots of the
young "oakum boys" were around. Some Kings were holding eggs on their
feet. Returning to the landing site, Morten alerted us to a Leopard Seal
which was hauled out on the beach. South Georgia is the northernmost
limit of their range. So, this turned out to be an unexpected treat.
Finally, we returned to our ship, to eat a quick lunch.

We headed to Prion Island, with a program outlined by Morten and Debra.
However, upon arrival, Morten launched a scout Zodiac, and determined
that the swells were too high for us to safely land. So, a staff meeting
to develop Plan B was held.

Next, we headed for Fortuna Bay, hoping to make a landing. This is an
extremely scenic bay, teaming with wildlife. The snow covered mountain
peaks were visible with clear, blue skies. All around us, we marveled at
the majestic, jagged peaks. Morten and our dedicated captain lauched out
on a Zodiac to see if a landing was possible. Upon their return, Morten
called for the brave of heart and most agile folks to take on the
landing! About half of our ship landed and enjoyed more King Penguins,
as well as a hike to the waterfalls.

Dinner was late-- 8 pm. Tomrrow, we are set for a 4 am wake-up call!

Albatrosses forever,
Debi Shearwater
On board Professor Multanovskiy, charter voyage

HIding out at Salisbury Plain

13 January 2010
Salisbury Plain, South Georgia

Well, it had to happen- that big low pressure system running on our
tails, just had to catch up to us, and it did, late last night. Our
captain had repositioned the ship after our excellent Zodiac cruise at
Elsehul. In the lee of Start Point, we spent a peaceful night, while our
fellow travelers on other ships battled gale force winds and seas. In
fact, we spent the entire day at the same anchorage, riding out this
storm which eventually reached a Force 12, hurricane level by mid-day.
We were quite comfortable, with only the occassional roll due to the
swells.

Our program today consisted of the Caroline Alexander DVD, "Endurance,"
a classic in its field. In the afternoon, the Shearwater Leaders, Scott
Terrill, Linda Terrill, David Vander Pluym and John Sterling did a recap
of the entire wildlife list, beginning with our extremely successful
days in Ushuaia. This was followed by a our standard recap and briefing,
where our EL, Morten, explained the Beaufort Scale. Debra Shearwater
followed by introducing our ship mascot, Max. Max is a laid back parrot,
sipping his rum and coke, wearing his sunglasses on his straw hat, and
flipping his foot to the tune of, "Don't Worry, Be Happy"! This was
followed by everyone in the bar singing the song. Our Hotel Manager,
Daniela, was especially smitten with Max! He remains in the bar this
evening, watching over a party bridge game headed up by Don Doolittle.

Oh, yes, we did see a few BIRDS! Several South Georgian Pintails flew
past the vessel, a life bird for many on board. More Antarctic Terns
were about today. We have seen many Pale-faced Sheathbills! Don't worry,
be happy! We are pretty much living it up as best we can, while waiting
out the storm. It is now after 9 pm, and the winds have greatly abated.
Now, we hope for the swells to die down for our hopeful activities
planned for tomorrow.

Don't worry-- Morten called a meeting with Debra Shearwater and Don
Doolittle and the Shearwater Leaders, early in the morning. We have a
Plan A and a Plan B! So, Be Happy this evening.

Albatrosses forever,
Debi Shearwater
On board Shearwater Journeys' charter voyage

A Whale of a Day!

11 January 2010 En Route to South Georgia

Early morning found us surrounded by whales in all directions off the
bow. The first of 59 Fin Whales made a pass only 30 feet off the bow.
This was immediately followed by 2 Sei Whales which followed our joyful
ship at the 10 o'clock position for about 5 minutes. Hourglass Dolphins
rode the bow. More Fin Whales appeared. Our very keen Captain slowed the
ship, and cameras shot off in rapid fire. V-shaped blows were spotted
off the bow. Again, our Captain carefully navigated our ship, providing
excellent views and photo opportunities for us with four Southern Right
Whales! Many folks on board were especially anxious to see this
particular species of whale. A few more Hourglass Dolphins cruised by.
Finally, six Southern Bottlenose Whales were spied. They never
approached the ship, but due to the extremely calm seas, all on board
were afforded good views of this toothed whale. It was one incredible
day for whales-- and, perfect timing since we had had our cetacean
lecture only yesterday.

Seas continued to remain remarkably flat, without any whitecaps
whatsoever. The sea surface temperature dropped from 10 degrees C at the
Falkland Islands to 6 degrees C, and finally to 4 degrees C, after
crossing the Antarctic Convergence, or Polar Front, today. This brought
a major influx of Antarctic Prions. A few King Penguins were seen
swimming at sea, and more Gray-headed Albatrosses were spotted today.

We continued our on board lectures, with Don Doolittle presenting an
informative talk about Ice; John Sterling on Albatross Natural History,
and Debra Shearwater on an overview of South Georgia's magnificent
wildlife.

Very early tomorrow morning, we hope to spot Shag Rocks, the smallest
sub-Antarctic islands.

Our total cetacean counts for 11 January 2010 were:
SOUTHERN RIGHT WHALE- 4
SOUTHERN FIN WHALE- 59
SOUTHERN SEI WHALE- 3
SOUTHERN BOTTLENOSE WHALE- 6
HOURGLASS DOLPHIN- 27

Albatrosses forever,
Debra Shearwater

Bold, Daring & Naughty!

On 6 January 2010 at 7pm,Shearwater Journeys' charter voyage to the
Falkland Islands, South Georgia and Antarctica departed from Ushuaia,
Argentina under fair skies aboard Professor Multanovskiy. This unique
voyage has been planned for nearly 3 years in collaboration with
Oceanwide Expeditions, winner of the 2009 Polar Expeditions Award. We
sailed with 49 birders, 6 Shearwater Journeys' staff, our Expedition
Staff and 20 excellent Russian Crew. Excitement was very high, indeed!

7 January, we spent the day at sea en route to the Falkland Islands.
Conditions were quite excellent, as we were escorted by hoards of
albatrosses, prions, storm-petrels, giant petrels and more. Both
Northern and Southern Royal Albatrosses were a highlight for many on
board. These were eclipsed by Sei Whales and Peale's Dolphins in the
early evening.

8 January, found us approaching Carcass Island in the early morning. Our
ship was escorted by a bevy of Peale's and Commerson's Dolphins. At our
landing site, we found many species of birds: Striated Caracara, Cobb's
Wren, Tussac Birds, Magellanic Penguins, Gentoo Penguins and more! For
me, personally, a hightlight of the day was having the Captain as the
Zodiac driver!

After a wonderful lunch, we proceeded to our hopeful landing at Steeple
Jason. This is a very difficult landing, and few are successful. Our
extremely skillful Expediton Leader, managed to find a spot in amongst
the rocks, where every passenger was able to make a safe landing on this
glorious island. Steeple Jason holds the world's largest colony of
nesting albatrosses. We were thrilled to see so many Black-footed
Albatross chicks in their nests. Both islands provided a beautiful
hike with outstanding scenery. It was sunny, balmy and even hot, near
70F. At 8 pm, we returned to our cozy home and enjoyed another one of
Marcelo's excellent dinners. We had executed our "bold, daring and
naughty" plan quite successfully. Spirits are extremely high.

Albatrosses forever,
Debra Shearwater, on board Professor Multanovskiy

ANTARCTICA BOUND!

HOLA, Friends & Family & Birders,

Shearwater Journeys' incredible voyage to the ANTARCTIC PENINSULA, SOUTH GEORGIA and THE FALKLAND ISLANDS is about to begin this afternoon. All 49 passengers/birders and six Shearwater Leaders are extremely excited. Buzzing energy is in the air! In addition to these 55 people, we will be joined by expert Expedition Leader, Morten Joergensen of Denmark and top Hotel Manager, Daniela Cristoff of Argentina, our wonderful doctor Kate Goldberg from England, two chefs and our able Russian Crew of 20, including Master, Alexander Pruss, one of the best Russian Captains. Professor Multanovskiy awaits us at the dockside.

Most of us (46) enjoyed a wonderful day of birding in TIERRA DEL FUEGO NATIONAL PARK, Ushuaia, Argentina, yesterday. Highlights included: ANDEAN CONDOR, AUSTRAL PYGMY OWL, many MAGELLANIC WOODPECKERS, ASHY-HEADED and UPLAND GEESE, THORN-TAILED RAYADITO, WHITE-THROATED TREERUNNER, AUSTRAL THRUSH, PATAGONIAN SIERRA-FINCH, and more. Three species of caracaras were found— SOUTHERN CRESTED, WHITE-TRHOATED (first time I have ever seen one away from the dump), and an extremely comical group of CHIMANGO CARACARAS, eating an unattended picnic lunch, including the chicken on the grill!

It's time to cast off the lines!! Stay tuned for more, once I am on board our new home!

Best of the New Year to all,

Debi

Debra Shearwater

Shearwater Journeys, Inc.

PO Box 190

Hollister, CA 95024

831.637.8527

debi@shearwaterjourneys.com

www.shearwaterjourneys.com

www.shearwaterjourneys.blogspot.com

**Antarctica, South Georgia, & The Falkland Islands, January 5-24, 2010*

Shearwater Journeys' Exclusive Charter

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